Blue Eyed Beauties - Best Colour Combos! ♥

Do you have blue eyes, like myself?

I really love working on blue eyed girls and find that it can be the brightest eye colour that just POPS like no other! I've heard a lot of mixed opinions on colours to suit blue eyes but I disagree with a few that would include gray, blues and taupes. Cooler colours are a no-no, in my opinion.

The Theory

You're always supposed to refer to the colour wheel when choosing the perfect colour combination. Choosing a completely contrasting colour to the subject will make it pop! Have a look at the colour wheel to the right. See your eye colour? Now head to the opposite point of the wheel and choose that colour! As you can see, orange shades will work for blues.

So, what colours work for blue eyes?

Tones that ease into the warmer side of life. Orange, copper, bronze, red, gold, beige, toasty browns & creams are always a great starting point! They completely flatter blue eyes and allow your eyes to shine. I find that peach, corals & pinks are gorgeous for blue eyed beauties too. Purples can work as long as they ease towards cranberry and steer away from navy and blues. Read more about what to avoid below!

What colours to avoid for blue eyes?
Speaking on a strictly technical basis, anything that is cool should be avoided. This would be your gray, silver, taupe, blues and navy shades. Your blue eyes are a perfectly cool colour themselves and need something to compliment them, not over-power them.

Martha's Top Picks for Blue Eyes
MAC Cosmetics eyeshadows 'Orange, Red Brick, Coppering, Nylon, Cranberry, Amber Lights' €10
Urban Decay eyeshadow 'Half Baked' €18
Inglot eyeshadows '335, 51, 65, 407' €6
Sleek Sunset Palette €10Makeup Revolution 'Mountains of Gold, Naive, So Good To Me, Touch Me, I Want U' £1

So for blue eyes, the contrasting colour is orange. In saying that, you shouldn't restrict yourself to that colour. Makeup is all about experimenting, being creative and feeling good about yourself. You can't do that using the same colour every single day, but it definitely flatters. And trust me, it works! Of course there are girls with naturally bright eyes that no matter what they do, any colour will work - (luckyyy). Always experiment with your own makeup and even try out the 'no-go' shades to see what works for you. Makeup isn't black and white. If it was it sure would be a lot easier though! Do what works for you and makes you feel good.

Remember - it's all about contrast. To make black stand out, you'd wear white, right?

Comment below if you'd like me to do more colours!

I hope this helps! Martha xx

Kim Kardashian Inspired Makeup & Product List! ♥

As we eased into December, so did our darker trends. Whether it be your clothing, hair or makeup, everybody wants to go just a little more dramatic during the chilly time of year. Dark lips have, and I think, always will be huge in the makeup world for Autumn/Winter, but a dark eye never loses luster!

Recently I demonstrated a Kim Kardashian inspired look on model Orla. Throughout the following week, almost all of my clients were bringing in that photo and asking me to recreate it for their nights out, so I've had a lot of practice at this stage! Not only am I going to list all of the products used, how to use them but I've also linked as to where you can buy everything! Eeekk!
Don't hate me if you're poor after this! x

The eyes are a mixture of brown & black with a gorgeous burnt copper tone in the background to add a little more depth. The skin; extremely contoured and a matte finish. The brows; bold and defined. The lips; matte and nude. I'll start with a product list and then I'll delve into how I used each product beneath it (+ links to each item)!

Product List

FACE -

Smashbox Photo Finish Primer 

MAC Cosmetics Studio Fix Fluid NC40

MAC Cosmetics Pro Longwear Concealer NW15

MAC Cosmetics Studio Fix Powder NC40

Anastasia Beverly Hills Contour Palette 'Banana'

MAC Cosmetics Mineralize Skin Finish 'Medium Deep'

Sleek Contour Palette 'Medium'

MAC Cosmetics Blush 'Peaches'

MAC Cosmetics Mineralize Skin Finish 'Lightscapade'

MAC Cosmetics Fix + Spray

EYES -

Urban Decay Eye Primer Potion 

MAC Cosmetics Eyeshadows
 'Gesso', 'Blanc Type', 'Orange', 'Red Brick', 'Swiss Chocolate', 'Folie', 'Embark'

Inglot Eyeshadow '335', '63'

Inglot Gel Eyeliner '77'

Inglot Duraline

MAC Cosmetics Eyeliner pencil 'Feline'

Rimmel London Mascara 'Lash Accelerator'

Ardell Lashes '117'

Duo Glue

BROWS -

Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Powder 'Dark Brown' & 'Ebony' 

MAC Cosmetics Fluidline 'Dipdown'

Inglot Duraline

MAC Cosmetics Correct & Conceal Palette 'Light'

LIPS -

MAC Cosmetics Lipliner 'Boldly Bare'

MAC Cosmetics Lipstick 'Honey Love' & 'Myth'

Details & How To -

Prep
So to begin, I prepped the skin with my Smashbox Photo Finish primer all over the face, about a pea-sized amount. This allows the foundation to glide on effortlessly and takes away any shine that was naturally on the face. I then applied a full amount of Studio Fix Fluid foundation all over the face to rid my model of any blemishes. I used the same brush for both - Crownbrush C427. 

Brows

Next, the brows! I used a thick angled brush throughout my models eyebrows & created the shape I wanted using my brow powder. This never defines or darkens them as much as I need, so I then went over them with my Fluidline from MAC. To make the Fluidline glide on easily, I used a few drops of 'Duraline' and mixed it around with a thin angled brush until I was happy with the moist consistency. I then went beneath the brows from the outter half underneath the arch all the way to the edge of the brow with my angled brush. The trick to building up the definition is to apply it slowly. Then I filled in the upper half of the arch with my Fluidline also. Instead of applying it throughout the entire brow, I used a disposible mascara wand to blend the product through the brows. The next step I took was grabbing a flat brush for concealer. I put a little bit of the original foundation on the brush and defined the upper part of the brow by going along the edges with it. This makes for a perfectly defined brow. I then took the same step for beneath the brows, except with a light coloured concealer.

Eyes
When the brows were finished, I applied concealer all over the eyelid before adding my eyeshadow primer. I then dabbed my 'Blanc Type' eyeshadow all over the lid, all the way up to the brow, using a flat brush ideal for 'dabbing'. I used that same brush to pop Inglot '335' eyeshadow all over the eyelid, up to the socket. I prefer to apply the product then blend it afterwards. On top of that, I added 'Swiss Chocolate' & 'Folie'. Finally, I blended with my Nichola brush with no product on it up into the crease and towards the brow bone, making everything even. I then added my Inglot eyeliner and put it all over the lash line without a wing. I used a '263' brush from MAC. 

Using AYU's crease brush I took MAC's 'Embark' and Inglot's '63' and buffed it into the lash line and the liner, allowing the darkest colour to appear as close to the eye as possible. When that was blended in sufficiently, I used my MAC 'Red Brick' & 'Orange' on a fluffy brush and blended lightly into the socket and up towards the brow bone. I took the same steps beneath the eyes - I used a big brush for the lighter colours and used a chissel brush for the dark
brown and black (63 & Embark'). I then added my eyeliner pencil. 

For the highlighter, I used MAC's 'Gesso' on an angled brush beneath the eyebrow and in the inner corner of the eye, making an almost blue-grey colour. I then took my '117' eyelashes and added a little bit of Duo Glue'. I waited about 30 seconds before popping them onto the eye.

Face
Now that the eyes are finished, I completed the skin. I popped some Pro Longwear concealer beneath the eyes, added my Studio Fix powder, along with my Anastasia 'Banana' colour beneath the eyes. With an angled brush I used 'Medium Deep' to warm the edges of the face - the temples, cheekbones, chin, nose, jawline, forehead and neck. To make a really deep contour I also used my Sleek palette. Then I went in with a matte peach blush from MAC 'Peaches'. On top of the cheekbones, nose and cupids bow I then used a stipple brush to apply my 'Lightscapade'. The lips were simply done using 'Boldly Bare' lipliner, 'Honey Love' & 'Myth' lippy. I then finished the look with 2 or 3 sprays of my 'Fix +'

I hope this was helpful! Happy shopping & don't forget to show me your recreations! Martha xx

AYU Makeup - Bargain Buys REVIEW! ♥

Hey guys, welcome back to my blog! Today I'm gonna chat a bit about AYU Makeup and the products it has to offer. I was sent some absolutely lovely things by owner Suzanne and I've been loving them ever since. Before I delve into each product, I gotta let you know about AYU itself. The line was set up by a Makeup Artist herself, working in the industry for over ten years, so you know it's going to be good. They are cruelty free (yay, my favourite!), top quality and not going to break the bank. Suzanne has told me herself that no matter how many times they've been told to 'up' the prices, they're determined to keep their prices affordable for everybody, beginners and industry professionals alike. They are big into education and knowing how to use their products correctly, so with every purchase you'll also receive a little 'How To' leaflet to maximize your experience!

Contour palette, Foundation Brush & 4 Eye Brushes

                                  

     Foundation Brush

These Kabuki style foundation brushes are really big on the market right now. 

If you've read any of my past reviews or follow me on Facebook you'll already know that these are my favourite kind. The soft bristles at the top of the brush mean the foundation really does glide on without any harsh streaks and feels so soft on the face. This brush is identical to some of the top-quality brushes out there at only a fraction of the price. Bargain central!
Retails at €10.50

Eye Shadow Brush

As many pro-blenders and fluffy contraptions there are on the market now, everybody still needs a basic applicator brush. I use these flat brushes to apply a base colour all over the lid. It's also a great one for dabbing on pigments and glitters to the lid. At such a small price, it should be a staple in everybody's makeup collection. Photo on right. 

Retails at €4.50

                                                  Pro Blender Brush 

This does exactly what it says on the tin. In order to have a complete makeup brush collection, you need a few blenders. This one is perfect. It has thick bristles which means you're still left with a great element of control. It is mostly a flat brush but not thin, so perfect for blending. These are my favourite type of blending brushes and I have wayyy too many, I think we're heading into double digits at this stage. Bottom photo shows it turned to the side to see the width. Retails at €4.50

                                  Eye Shadow Blender Brush

Another breed of blender, the super fluffy for maximum blending. This is perfect for blending a subtle colour into the socket of your eyes on your 'no makeup' days, am I right? It's also a great one for going over the edges of a smokey eye. Apply no product to the brush and just blend along the outside of your already applied eyeshadow. This will eliminate any noticeable lines and make for a super blended look.
Retails at €4.50

                   Crease Brush 

Every makeup fanatic is aware of crease brushes. They're tiny little firm brushes made for applying product into the socket/crease of your eyelid. It's super small, skinny and firm so you have so much control over what you're doing and how much product you're applying. These brushes will provide a straight line in your crease which can also be blended out with the 'Pro Blender' brush. These are also great little tools for smudging out eyeliner on both the top and bottom lid. I have about 15 of these little guys. I know, I have an obsession!
Retails at €4.00

Contour Palette

If you're a makeup enthusiast, then I'm sure you're already well aware of the art of contouring and all that it brings. There are hundreds if not thousands or 'How To' contour videos online, all over Youtube. Ever since Kim Kardashian shared her contouring secrets by her Makeup Artist Mario Dedivanoc the world has just gone crazy! There are two types of contouring - cream & powder. I offer powder contour to my clients but it's always fun to experiment with cream contouring too!

On the left, I've attached a photo of not only the contour palette but a little guide to go along with it. 

Starting from the left column, there are 2 corrective colours to disguise different coloured bags beneath the eyes. Above them is a highlighter for the cheekbones etc.

Contouring on model using the AYU Contour Palette

In the next column, we have our highlight colours. This slowly transitions to our bronze colours and eventually our shading for contour. If you haven't learned how to contour yet, you need to! It will change your life. To learn how to contour, click here for a guide that I created a while ago!

I tested out the palette for myself using the colours and the guide I showed you & this was the result. There's a lot of mixed reviews about the preference between cream and powder contouring, but it's up to you to experiment and decide yourself! 

Retails at €15.00

There you have it, my review of the excellent value AYU Makeup. Throughout the review when I was referring to the prices, I was actually in awe over their affordable price. This would be perfect for somebody starting out their makeup collection and doesn't have the means to spend hundreds on a few great brushes. I hope you enjoyed my review & that it was helpful for you! Don't forget to 'like' AYU on Facebook here, With over 16,000 likes they've already made their mark in the Irish industry!

See you soon! Love Martha xx

Lip Voltage REVIEW - Injection Free Plumping! ♥

Hey guys,

I'm sure most of you are aware of the number one lip plumping product on the market right now, that is 'Lip Voltage'. I've heard many mixed reviews and decided it's finally time to try it out for myself to see what the fuss is all about, and if it works for me. I received it months ago, but between a busy schedule and being repeatedly sick, my lips just haven't had the time to be beautified until now!

So, what is Lip Voltage?

Lip Voltage is by the company 'Dreamweave & Co.' It's a fast absorbing non-permanent peptide & collagen lip treatment that allows blood flow to the lips and gives them a bigger appearance. It lasts approximately 24 hours after application, so you don't have to be afraid of long term effects.

There's no clinic, no needles and no hefty price tag! 

How do you use it?

Always read the instructions properly when trying out a new product

Upon appearance, it looks like and holds like an average lip-gloss. As well as the gloss, comes 'Mix Up The Voltage' which allows you to customize your plumping effect and give it a turbo boost. Adding 1 drop will create low voltage, whereas adding 3 (max) will create the hottest & highest voltage. 'Mix Up The Voltage' comes in a little non-needle syringe, just for measuring out your amount of product. When applying the drops, dab the lip wand in and out of the tube for about one minute to ensure that the product is well & truly mixed around. Then apply!

Application

I noticed a defined lip line upon application

I used .15ml as I wasn't sure what my lips could take. I applied the product at 2:35pm and decided to note the effects minute by minute. I applied an even layer on both my top & bottom lip. 2 minutes later I felt a slight fuzziness in my top lip. By the time 5 minutes had passed my top lip was still the only fuzzy slightly warm feeling, so I decided to apply another layer to the bottom as it wasn't feeling anything. At 2:45pm my top lip started feeling super 

tingly and slightly hot. Still, my bottom lip didn't feel a thing so I decided to apply a third layer. Finally, at 2:50pm (15 minutes after initial application) both of my lips felt tingly and hot but bareable. 

Suddenly, I noticed in the mirror that my top lip was noticeably plumper and more defined around the edges. At 3:00pm I took my final photographs. The hot buzzing feeling didn't die down and only intensified. I feel it may bother some people and others it wouldn't. I didn't mind it, especially given the effects. I feel that I could have had a super intensified test-run by using the maximum product, but I wasn't sure how much my lips could handle using it for the first time, so I'll be intrigued to mix up the voltage even more next time. 

Does it hurt?

From reading multiple reviews and hearing many opinions, I believe it's all about personal pain threshold. Some people experience a certain level of pain and uncomfort, whereas others don't feel it at all. Some actually like the sensation! Whether you feel pain or not, I think that everybody will experience a little tingle. The pain level generally depends on the amount of 'Mix Up The Voltage' you use. (.1 ml - mild. .2 ml - medium. .3 ml - hot.)

Why does it hurt? (if at all)

Upon mixing in your 'Mix Up The Voltage', it increases blood flow and opens pores so the product can truly work, mimicking the effect of chilli on the lips without irritating the skin. 

How much does Lip Voltage cost?

The average retail price in Ireland for 'Lip Voltage' is €35, so don't be fooled by more expensive price-tags! 

Where can I buy Lip Voltage?

Lisa Wallace Beauty, 22 South William Street. €35
There are many stockists in the UK but here in Ireland, the plumper isn't as readily available. It is always better to buy from a reputable company than to buy a knock-off product a little cheaper from the internet. As with cosmetics and perfume, there is always going to be fake products out there that claim to be the real deal, When in fact, you're better off knowing 100% what products you're using.

Concluding Opinion (Hello0o, does it work?)
Well, you tell me! I would say yes. I have heard a few mixed reviews about the product that is 'Lip Voltage' so as you can imagine I was dying to test it myself. I am actually very satisfied with the results. I find that when used correctly and with the right amount of product, it should work for you too. I guess you'll never know until you try it for yourself!

Before & After 'Lip Volage' - Slightly different angles. Top lip noticeably bigger

Well that's it guys! I hope my review has been helpful.

Here's an idea - hashtag #lipvoltage into Instagram to see more Before & Afters! What do you think about it? Did it work for you? Let me know in the comments! Don't forget to 'like' Lisa Wallace Beauty on Facebook here to keep up with offers & giveaways! Martha xx

MAC Liverpool Buys! ♥

What are your favourite MAC products? I was recently in Liverpool and took advantage of my Pro discount. I get one in Dublin too, but the extra 5% stupidly seemed like an extra 50. Haha! I'm all for topping up my kit, it's an essential part of Makeup Artistry and will need to top up on bits that I've ran out of every couple of months if not weeks. I'm due one now, eeek! Though when I'm away, I really like to embrace my freedom and treat myself, so I bought a few new additions for my kit.

Every time I enter a makeup counter, or any shop in general, I suddenly 'need' things that never originally crossed my mind. When I saw these few things, I couldn't resist.

I purchased...

                                     MAC Lipstick 'Diva'

I've seen a few Makeup Artists that I know sporting this shade over Winter and I was never really intrigued, until I saw it in person. It's a perfect Winter colour and teamed up with the right lipliner works wonderfully. It's very bold though, I recommend a neutral eye to accompany it. Do whatever works for you though!
Retails at €19.50

MAC Pro Longwear Lipliner 'Bespoken For'This is what I used to accompany my 'Diva' lipstick recently. I applied them both on the spur of the moment before heading out one night. I was wearing very little eye makeup so I figured it would work well. I'm still unsure if a dark lip suits me though! This isn't the best photo and as you may have guessed wasn't intended for my blog! Haha. Lip liner from the Pro Longwear range is a must! It lasts oh so long and needs to be removed with a lot of force. Retails at €20.00

                 MAC Lipliner 'Boldly Bare'

I'm really happy that I bought this lipliner. I'm notorious for my nude lips on 98% of my clients and this is the perfect one for them. It's a really light nude, slightly peach colour so it won't limit you to colder shades. Here's a sample photo of it used.
Retails at €16.50

                                                                                    MAC Pigment 'Coppersparkle'

I am a magpie when it comes to copper and bronze. These are my colours that I just can't resist! I never even use half of them. They work so well on blue eyes and I suppose that because my eyes are blue it's an extra attraction as it wouldn't just be used for the kit. I decided to test it out for the first time on New Years Eve. Being honest, I'm not the best with pigment and I hardly ever use it because I'm awful at applying it and feel it never shows true. I decided to scrap the usual 'Duraline' or mixing mediums and went straight into Duo Glue. I dabbed a cotton bud in Duo, then into the pigment. I then dabbed it on my lid repeatedly. I didn't finish there of course. I added some INGLOT glitter over it to finish it off. I don't filter my work but any photos of little old me need it - trust me! Haha
Retails at €24.50

Happy Shopping! Martha xx

(Prices are of Brown Thomas, Dublin)
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